You might think that wineries would have championed federal Country of Origin Labelling (COOL) legislation for imported meat. Winemakers take pride in transforming grapes into a beverage that captures the flavor of the local environment, from climatic conditions down to the soils. The development and designation of AVAs across the country let them put that pride on their own labels, with the most cherished appellations worth oodles in the collectors’ mind. So what's their beef?